Making a print once you have the right exposure time:
Once you have finished processing your test strip, and have selected the exposure you are going to use, you are ready to make your final image or images. To do this, you'd first set your timer to the amount of seconds that determine the best exposure. Then, place a new piece of photographic paper under the enlarger, making sure the emulsion side is facing upwards. Next, arrange your items/negatives on top of the paper, and expose this for the set amount of seconds. You will therefore produce a successful final image that is not too over or under exposed. |
Painting with developer: To create this image, I placed my photographic paper under the enlarger, and arranged my items on top of it. I then exposed the paper for roughly 3 seconds, to create negatives. After my paper was exposed, I then moved to the tray of developer; and using a paintbrush, held my paper vertical to the floor, and allowed the chemicals to drip down it. I also tried 'splattering' and dripping the developer as well, to create different effects. This technique only partially allows the image to develop where the chemicals touch the paper, instead of submerging it all, like usual. As a result, you are left with an image that is black and white, with interesting shapes and patterns where the liquid has dripped over the page. |
Double exposure: To create this effect I repeated the same first steps as mentioned above, and allowed my paper to be exposed once with a first set of items. However, I then chose some new translucent items and arranged them over the same pre-exposed paper, and exposed it again for the same amount of time. After developing this image, you are left with a ghost like effect, where both sets of negatives can be seen overlapping each other. |
Moving an object: For this image, I laid out my photographic paper, and used an old cassette and also a pair of scissors. I first positioned the item near the left hand side of the paper, and exposed it for 1 and a half seconds. I then gradually moved the item across the paper until I reached the end; while exposing it for the same amount of time in between each movement. The end result is the effect of the item moving across the page, and overlapping itself. |
Sandwich print/negative to positive: For this image, I 'sandwiched' an already exposed and processed image with a new unexposed piece of photographic paper. I laid these together under a pane of glass, so that they were kept firmly together in place, and used the enlarger to expose the paper. This creates the effect of the 'negatives' turning into 'positives' as the image is effectively reversed. You are left with a positive version of the same image. |
An example of a solarized print:
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Solarizing:
To create an image using this technique, the photographic paper is exposed like usual, once I'd arranged my items on top of it, but it is developed in a different way. Instead of leaving the paper in the developer tray, to process for 1-2 minutes, it is left in the tray for only a few seconds until the image starts to develop. Once the image begins to be seen, the paper is taken out of the tray and re-exposed under the enlarger. The paper can then be processed as usual, and the resultant effect is silvery hints and an outline around the negatives in the image. |
Weaving: This technique is created by using two developed contrasting images. I cut the first image into 1cm strips vertically, but left roughly half a centimeter at the end, so that the strips were still all attached. This made it easier for me to weave the second image through. I then cut the second developed image into 1cm strips horizontally, but this time all the way through so the strips were all separated. I was then able to start weaving the two sets of strips together by alternating weaving them over and then under each time. Finally, I secured the finished weaved image together with masking tape on the back. |
What does SLR stand for?
SLR stands for single lens reflex - which refers to the way this type of camera works. Unlike digital cameras, this type uses rolls of film to capture images. The back of the camera is opened, and the roll of film is slotted into it. Before taking a photo, you have to set the aperture and shutter speed to determine how much and for how long you want your film to be exposed for. So, when you are ready to take a photo and look through the viewfinder, light passes through the lens and bounces off a diagonally placed mirror, into your eye. Then, when you press the shutter release button, the shutter opens, allowing the film at the back of the camera to be exposed to the light. Once light hits the film, a chemical reaction starts and the silver halide starts to form an image. The film can then be processed for the image to be developed. |
What is the Exposure Triangle? The exposure triangle consists of three variables that adjust how a camera captures light. These are the aperture, ISO and shutter speed. Together, these three elements allow a shot to be properly exposed; and are all dependent on each other do do so. What is Shutter speed? The shutter speed controls the speed at which the lens opens and closes to allow light into the camera. What is the Aperture? This is the section of the camera that can be adjusted to let in more or less light, depending on how exposed you want your images to be. What is ISO/ASA? This is effectively the camera's sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the higher the sensitivity and exposure. |